DEAR MISS MANNERS: I have read much on the proper construction of a pousse-cafe: a cocktail having each ingredient carefully layered over the previous one.

Unfortunately, none of these guides has described the proper way to drink the result (after properly admiring it, of course). Does one gently mix the ingredients to complete the cocktail? Or is it proper to try to sip each layer, preserving the presentation?

GENTLE READER: Sip each layer, knowing that with each subsequent sip, the layers will start to blend. That is part of the experience -- or so Miss Manners has been told. Please excuse her while she goes off to try it out immediately.

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