This is One Thing , a column with tips on how to live.

In America, the fourth Thursday of November is the day most synonymous with feasting. It conjures pictures of crowded chairs amalgamated from all rooms of the house around a skirted table laden with dishes that only come out of the oven once or twice a year. But when we all gather round that table to give thanks, what should we be drinking?

Wine? Sure, you could wash down some turkey and mashed potatoes with a Beaujolais. But wine (a light, acidic red or a fruity, crisp white) only pairs well with the flavors of Thanksgiving, it doesn’t address the physical trial of feasting that the holiday entails. The biggest meal of the year calls for a more strategic beverage choice, but unfortunately, Americans are unaccustomed to drinki

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