Ifeel like I’ve become a regular at a restaurant that has a completely different menu, staff and even name each time I go.

The setting is always the same, in window-lined room overlooking the streetcar making its turn into downtown New Orleans, and so is the underlying goal that guides the changing format.

This time around the restaurant is called Embers , with a menu in sync with autumn, with flavors of smoke and fall produce. Add seasonal drinks and it has all the makings for an offbeat pick for those holiday-time weekday lunch outings New Orleans people put on their calendars.

Embers is the latest edition of an ongoing, twice-yearly program at the New Orleans Culinary & Hospitality Institute, or NOCHI , the downtown culinary school.

A ready-made restaurant space is part of this

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