It used to be Cambodia’s capital. Now it’s a city of the dead

Psadek, Cambodia —

After years guiding tourists around Cambodia, Nao Sok has a clear answer when asked which destination is most underrated: Oudong.

Located about 35 kilometers (22 miles) from Phnom Penh, this was Cambodia’s capital from 1618 to the mid-1860s.

The name Oudong comes from the Sanskrit word uttunga , often meaning “high,” “tall,” or “supreme.” Officially, it’s Phnom (“mountain” or “hill”) Oudong on maps.

Although the country’s seat of power moved away more than 150 years ago, Oudong still holds deep significance to the Cambodian royal family. It’s a hill complex, home to several ornate Buddhist stupas, as well as relics, sculptures and sacred artifacts. In all, there are 16 stupas that hold the remains of Cambodian kings.

It’s more than 500 steps to the top, but th