CLEVELAND, Ohio — December is right around the corner. This means two things in Cleveland, at least for me: GLBC Christmas Ale (no sugar rim, that’s blasphemy!) and the moment Johnny Mango brings back its beloved Laska—a quietly revered holiday dish.

This December-only special could easily be a year-round item, but that would spoon out the exclusivity.

The Ohio City global nosh spot goes through massive amounts of it every year, making more as quickly as they can turn that recipe over.

“Laska,” of course, is a playful riff on laksa , the Southeast Asian noodle soup that’s equal parts comfort food and cultural passport. When Mango management boasts, “So good, you’ll need an intervention,” they aren’t kidding.

This stuff is seriously habit-forming... no wonder the consonants got

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