Mid-morning in Tokyo. The Harajuku flagship store of Human Made Inc. is busy with tourists speaking Mandarin, English and Korean, to the background beat of a 1980s pop soundtrack. Inside, white walls and exposed pipes frame shelves of duck-print sweatshirts, mounted over storage boxes printed with Human Made’s signature retro graphics. The staff, sporting Converse sweatshirts and sneakers, makes everything flow at a smooth pace, as befits a label that staged a bumper IPO on the Tokyo Stock Exchange.

The man behind Human Made once said “I’m unable to do business”. Now, Tomoaki Nagao, aka Nigo, who has turned camo-print hoodies into a global status symbol, has masterminded such a hot streetwear IPO that it was subscribed 60 times over, according to sources familiar with the operation, for

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