By Oliver Griffin and Alexandre Meneghini

SAO DOMINGOS DO NORTE, Brazil, Dec 6 (Reuters) – Amid the din of a chic coffee shop on Sao Paulo’s posh Oscar Freire Avenue, a barista pulls an atypical espresso. Extra creamy, with an aroma of cocoa nibs, the shot lacks the hallmark acidity prized in coffee made from the finest arabica beans.

That is because this premium espresso is made of 100% robusta beans, long derided in the coffee world as cheap filler better suited for instant coffee.

“It’s a coffee that makes a wonderful crema … and has much more chocolatey notes,” said Marco Kerkmeester, co-founder of the Santo Grao coffee chain, noting the appeal of a variety cheekily labeled “0% Arabica.”

CHANGE ON THE FARM

As climate change threatens the arabica beans traditionally used in high-en

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