Grand Central Terminal, America’s greatest railroad nexus, deserved a great American restaurant. Brand-new Palladino’s Steak & Seafood is it.

The space was sadly dark after a kitchen fire destroyed Michael Jordan’s Steakhouse seven long years ago. Now, walk past a blue millwork bourbon bar and the main dining room on the north and west balconies boasts views of the terminal’s throbbing, vaulted concourse. Amidst the grandeur, you can almost hear the whistle of the long-gone Twentieth Century Limited.

The carpeted, white-tablecloth luxury of David Rockwell’s design with Art Deco accents evokes the glamour of the streamliner era as well. Banquettes and booths, velvet-upholstered in green and blue, are so comfy you don’t want to leave.

The house has been packed day and night since it open

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