Le Bistrot Paul Bert in Paris has been the place to go for classic French fare for almost three decades.

In Paris, there are restaurants and then there are bistros. The former is the more formal option, while the latter is, as the dictionary defines it: small, relatively simple, more relaxed. The ethos at Le Bistrot Paul Bert, in Paris’s lively 11th arrondissement, has always been just that.

The location at 18 rue Paul Bert was previously a coal cafe owned by a man from Aveyron; truckfuls of coal that had been shovelled off of trains at the Gare de Lyon were bagged in the rear of the cafe for delivery throughout Paris while the owner’s wife doled out glasses of Avèze, an herbaceous French liqueur, to peddlers and patrons at the bar.

In 1996, Bertrand Auboyneau and his wife, Gwénaëlle Ca

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