When I first heard about LSL, I, a consummate snob, was mainly concerned about the name. It didn’t sound very…now? It had none of the modern hallmarks (bar or studio in the title, referencing a dead relative of some kind, ends in -ina or -ino). What did it stand for? Turns out, each letter stood for one of the chefs that run it. Fair enough. Then I discovered who the chefs were — and the minimalist moniker made a lot more sense. Each is at the top at the top of their field: there’s Toronto legend Didier Leroy, weighted down with numerous fancy French accolades and titles; Toronto’s first two-star Michelin chef Masaki Saito (even if his sushi spot lost one recently); and three-Michelin-star maestro Christian Le Squer, who presides over Paris institution Le Cinq. “It’s a supergroup,” I whisp

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