Will Pittsburgh applaud One by Spork's single

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about the theatricality of restaurants. An effectively orchestrated dining experience built on practiced craft offers a kind of immersive escapism that’s a welcome break from the everyday.

The sense of performance hits quickly at One by Spork, where diners, surrounded by a laboratory of culinary equipment, sit around a semicircular table as chefs apply finishing touches to each course at a smaller station in the center.

Executive chef Chris Frangiadis and owner Andrew Tepper transformed their high-end restaurant, Spork, into a fine dining experience unlike anything else in the region at the end of last year. They chose the name “One” to reflect the singular nature of the experience at their space on the Bloomfield-Friendship line: one table, one menu, one