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After winning “Top Chef,” Mei Lin became a culinary force in Los Angeles with the now-closed Nightshade and her still-popular fast-casual spot Daybird.

At her new 88 Club in Beverly Hills, Lin explores Chinese and Chinese American in a posh fine-dining setting.

Her prawn toast is a brilliant take on the Cantonese snack and her nam yu chicken is universal comfort food, but other dishes are less fully realized.

Two things come to mind whenever I’m savoring the rectangular prawn toasts, fried to coppery crispness, at 88 Club in Beverly Hills: how brilliantly chef Mei Lin reconfigured the abiding Cantonese snack, and how its excellence amplifies what’s not as fully realized elsewhere

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