Dinner is different with the arrival of autumn. Afternoon shadows lengthen, the air chills with scents of damp earth as leaves turn gold and red, and we turn away from the grill and toward the stove.

In a glorious farewell to summer, the harvest is at its peak. Stroll the farmers market aisles piled high with a collision of seasons — the brilliant tomatoes, glossy eggplant, deep green kale and early cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, beets and potatoes. Aren’t we all hungry for more substantial comforting fare — the soups, stews, curries?

Celebrate the bounty with vegetable-forward dishes. Take cauliflower: Often underappreciated, it’s extremely versatile and compliant. Blanched or steamed, cauliflower retains its mild cabbage-y, nutty flavors, ready to be boldly seasoned with hot

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