T he longest line at Glen Cove’s Deep Roots farmers market is in front of Johnny Breads . At 9:30 a.m. on a Saturday, the Kalamata olive bread is gone, but there are still olive rolls; cranberry-nut loaves and rolls; plain and chocolate croissants; multigrain, whole-wheat and rye breads and most of the 100 loaves of Flagship Sourdough ($13) that have made baker John DellAquila’s name. The flour-dusted crust, with hues ranging from golden to mahogany, requires a knife to breach, but the ivory interior is tender and springy. The flavor? It’s amazing what complexity a great baker can coax from stone-milled wheat, water, salt and natural yeast.

Johnny Breads

WHERE TO FIND IT Farmers markets in Port Washington (every Saturday), Glen Cove and Long Beach (alternate Saturdays); Huntington

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