WEST ASHLEY — Tinted windows hide the action inside a restaurant just off Savannah Highway. Once the doors are opened, a crowded dining room comes into full view.

Large booths are filled with guests using chopsticks like claws, reaching across their dining companions for a twirl of beefy noodles or a spoonful of clear scallion-sprinkled broth bobbing with fresh rolled wontons.

Customers who have discovered this hidden gem wash down spicy chicken wings with large plastic cups of iced water and tea. They clutch dumplings that arrive in various shapes and sizes with fillings that range from pork or shrimp to chicken feet, brown sugar-sweetened sticky rice and mustard greens with shiitake mushrooms.

Though this menu is about as large as the one at The Cheesecake Factory , dumplings are th

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