Gorpcore was once a niche subculture for climbers, hikers and weekend campers, but has since become one of fashion’s most influential aesthetics. Even though it’s designed for extreme weather conditions, technical shells are being styled with Prada loafers and waterproof pants appear as often in London cafés as they do on mountain trails. But as luxury fashion moves into gorpcore, and high-performance materials migrate into everyday wardrobes, the risks associated with gorpcore’s performance-enhancing chemicals do, too.

At the center of this are PFAS — or perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances — a vast family of synthetic chemicals prized for its ability to repel water, stains and oil. In outdoor apparel, they’re everywhere: in waterproof coatings, stain-resistant finishes, odor-

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