The self-taught chef with Peruvian genes serves up the best ceviche in San Antonio and maybe in all of Texas.

Emil Oliva has the awards to prove it. But how did he wind up with a top prize for Tex-Mex? The master of ceviche is now king of a taco.

It’s true. The James Beard finalist who gave locals Michelin-recognized Leche de Tigre recently won the third annual Fajita Lounge Showdown.

You won’t find skirt steak on the menu at Leche de Tigre or any Tex-Mex ingredients to throw on the grill and toss in a tortilla.

Which raises the question: How did Oliva and his team best chefs from Mixtli , Bar Loretta , Cullum’s Attaboy and other establishments to become El Jefe de Fajitas?

“Some people know this and some people don’t,” Oliva began, “that we are half Peruvian and half Mexican.

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