How to make a better sandwich, inspired by international favorites

Iwasn’t expecting to be wowed by the sandwich I ordered for lunch at an out-of-the-way cafe on a side street outside of the main tourist area of Seville, Spain, but the montadito on my plate begged to differ. Served on a dense white roll called a bollo, the sandwich was stuffed with a salad of chickpeas, celery, red onion and capers in a creamy dressing, topped with fresh cilantro and a spiky scattering of potato sticks. Each bite offered a delightful surprise: the nuttiness of the chickpeas, a burst of vinegar from the capers, the salty crunch of that unexpected garnish of potato sticks. I’m fairly certain I detected one of my favorite ingredients, lemon zest, giving a subtle, sunny lift to the mayonnaise.