Echo Park— Back in the day, pizza was mostly thin-crust Neapolitan, with some more exotic joints offering a thicker-crust Sicilian. You topped it with mushrooms or maybe pepperoni. You washed down your slice with a Coke or a Pepsi. You didn’t have to think much about ordering a ‘za. Life was simple. Life ain’t simple no more.

A quick ramble through the Intertoobz came up with some two dozen American variations – including some oddities like Columbus style, Dayton style, Brier Hills style, Trenton style, Quad City style – and both Greek and New England Greek styles. And if you head for Quarter Sheets on tiny Portia Avenue in Echo Park, not far from Dodger Stadium, you’ll find a lively outpost of Detroit style. An undersized destination marked by nothing more than a rundown sign that rea

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