I’ve been on a mission to find a full Irish breakfast somewhere around town. It turned up at St. Mary’s , a new restaurant in Metairie that brings a lot more to the table and is conceived around its own mission.

There it all was on the breakfast platter, the squeaky banger (sausage) and the fatty rashers (somewhere between ham and bacon), the white and black puddings (both sausage, the latter with blood), and the beans, mushrooms and tomatoes, without which this wouldn’t be a full Irish. Dredging sourdough through runny egg yolks between meaty bites hit all the buttons.

There was a menu of bloody mary options to match, and a wide-ranging menu of Creole and American comfort food.

Underlying it is an impulse for generosity and uplift, as a grateful father strives to build a legacy that

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