The assignment was to see if any Rhode Island eateries have a dress code, and who better to start with than the doyenne of one of the state’s most upscale restaurants, Al Forno . So I called Johanne Killeen , and she surprised me by saying she’s never in 45 years had a code, or even a suggested dress guidance.

Nor has she ever turned anyone away, including the time a guy showed up in athletic shorts and a not-that-clean tank top.

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