Chettinad is a unique case study for its palatial homes built between the late 19th and early 20th century by the mercantile Nattukottai Nagarathar community. A distinct architecture evolved from the amalgamation of European, colonial and art deco with vernacular expressions: black-and-white flooring, Italian marble, Burmese teak carved pillars, Belgian glass, Athangudi tiles and courtyards. The mansions—some crumbling, others thriving as heritage resorts—hold remnants of a past glory.

Also read: Visalam, the greatest example of Chettinad deco in India

The aachis, Chettinad’s matriarchs, have always been masters at preservation. One such force of nature is Visalakshi Ramaswamy, whose family home in Kanadukathan, Karaikudi, is one of the finest examples of Chettinad architecture. “I was

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