The wine is great at Chenin.

As are the martinis — dirty and apple — as is the spicy margarita.

The wine service at Chenin, a 10-seat wine and craft cocktail bar that opened at the ground level of The Siren Hotel, is equally pristine. Chenin founder and beverage director Nick Arone can wax poetic about any one of the bar’s wine varieties, including — but not limited to — the splash of Les Bottes Rouges Kilt Vin de Liqueur he poured into my glass. Arone offered a sample of the dessert wine he’d recently brought back from a trip to Toronto to complement the two scoops of ice cream that sat before me in a silver bowl. The sweet, fortified wine that tastes much like the meaty innards of a plump, golden raisin brought out notes of yeast in the olive oil ice cream.

Yes, the wine is great at

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